Le Havre, a port city in Normandy that is spectacular in an unexpected way, is a survivor; it was largely rebuilt from scratch after World War II. It further appears more like a modern art exhibition than anything you’ve seen by Monet (the artist relocated to Le Havre when he was five years old), with its rainbow-hued shipping containers, geometric sculptures, and music hall housed in a building fashioned like a volcano.
Tourists who are only passing through on their way to Honfleur or the cliffs of Étretat are missing out on the modern delights that await them in Le Havre. Further, nightly, the city’s artisan breweries are packed to capacity, and the city’s global food scene has earned it recognition as a Unesco World Heritage Site in record time.
Things to do in Le Havre
Adore the cold hard surface of the concrete.
The polarizing mix of Brutalist and Gothic styles in Le Havre’s buildings. Moreover, German-occupied Le Havre almost completely destroyed by Allied bombing in 1944, thus the city quickly hired the services of controversial architect and concrete enthusiast Auguste Perret after the war ended to begin redeveloping the area. Further, reinforced concrete, pioneered by Perret, allowed for the rapid construction of low-cost, high-quality buildings that made efficient use of already-existing rubble. Further, by experimenting with pink, white, and other textures, he made concrete pillars in the style of ancient Greece.
The best local architecture can be seen at l’appartement témoin Perret, a time capsule from the 1950s that offers guided tours (€5 on weekdays and free on the first Saturday of the month). Go down Avenue Foch, through the mansions of Le Havre’s affluent, where the white concrete floors are as smooth as marble, and end up at St. Joseph’s Church (free access), which has the tallest spire along Le Havre’s waterfront. The concrete facade further isn’t to everyone’s taste, but the stained-glass windows within create a beautiful kaleidoscope of color and light and quickly convert skeptics.
Further, Oscar Niemeyer, a Brazilian architect who worked in the 1980s, will take you on a trip into the future. The city’s theater, Le Volcan, is in a building that looks like a power station. The library is in a building that looks like a UFO that has squashed. Both buildings are on Place General de Gaulle (free entry).
Convert to an art-hater
Moreover, urban art exhibitions outside of galleries are the main emphasis of Le Havre’s urban art scene, and viewing frequently uncharged. Conversation-starting is its main objective. As an example, consider the urinal that Marcel Duchamp further showed to the audience. “La Catène de containers” is a structure that is noteworthy. Often, brand-new items added to the many collections held inside the city. Visitors to Un Été au Havre may see public artworks produced by artists from all over the world beginning at the end of June and running until the middle of September.
Cool off in the pool
Furthermore, Le Havre is fortunate in that the city proper ends at the beach (the last tram stop in the downtown area is called “La Plage”). When the weather is nice, head to Glaces Ortiz for the greatest ice cream in town after renting a kayak, windsurfing equipment, or a stand-up paddleboard from Le Point nautique (Friday through Sunday, June through October). Further, take a boat tour of the port with Vedettes Baie de Seine (€15) to learn all about its hidden corners, or travel half an hour along the coast to the chalk cliffs of Étretat (half an hour by car) to see some of the best sea vistas in France.
Further, planning on spending time in the great outdoors during spring and summer? The swimming complex Les Bains des Docks (daily, €4.90 or €12.90) is among the best in the country. A large spa complete with hot and cold plunge pools, saunas, a hammam, and various outdoor and indoor pools can be found inside what looks like a white, mosaic Lego block. Sometimes there are even concerts right in the pools!
Lodging Options in
It should come as no surprise that hotels in the city known for making concrete hip would be bursting with personality. The Oscar Hotel further is an authentic time capsule from the 1950s, designed by architect Perret. Although the interior decoration appears to have not updated since the 1950s, the hotel’s convenient location and low rates make up for this flaw.
The Hotel Vent d’Ouest further doesn’t look like much from the outside, but it has grand suites with oil paintings of square-rigged ships, huge brass diving helmets, and a breakfast buffet that will make you feel like Joep van Lieshout’s character The Whale from this year’s Un Été au Havre.
How to find a good restaurant
Le Havre, Normandy, has earned its status as a top destination for seafood thanks to its history as a fishing hamlet. Have some razor clams on the city’s most beautiful garden patio at Les Enfants Sages, a former headmaster’s residence. Further, the oysters and choucroute at Taverne Paillette are delicious, and the butter marinades, butter sauces, and fleur de sel will make your chin glow like a candle.
In addition to its excellent three-course gourmet set menu (meat, fish, or vegetarian) and comprehensive wine list, La Bise’s waterfront location affords diners spectacular views of the setting sun and passing cargo ships.
The city has become a major commerce hub, and its residents have responded by enthusiastically embracing cuisines from all over the globe. The pasta at Le Sorrento will send your taste buds to the Amalfi coast, the mezze platters at Le Zgorthiote will ensure that no one goes home hungry, and the sushi at Hanami Sushi Bar (153 Quai George V) will transport you to Japan.
Le Chat Bleu features a sunlit terrace with views of the sea, an extensive vegetarian and vegan menu, and regular live music.
Watering holes
Any swashbuckling pirate worth his or her rum will tell you that the sea air can make one quite thirsty. Cider may be Normandy’s signature beverage, but in Le Havre, beer is king. With a wide variety of handcrafted beers available on tap, L’Amer à Boire has quickly become the place to be in the city. The local beers at L’Havrais Bière can be enjoyed in a lively, social setting, and the Belgian bar Le Trappiste is sure to draw a crowd. La Petite Rade has a fantastic happy hour, especially for those who enjoy cocktails.
Despite its status as a major coffee importer, getting a good cup of coffee in this city is challenging. While most French cafes don’t offer flat whites, Cargo Coffee Shop is an anomaly that does.
Stores’ locations
Like the wandering sailors of old, bring back a few bottles of liquor to share with friends and family (or be truly authentic and drink it en route). Visit Le Local for gastronomic specialties, souvenirs, and more beer, or stop by La Brasserie Saint Joseph, a brewery established by a young local guy amid the city’s former slaughterhouses.
For individuals who prefer to cook for themselves, Les Halles Centrales du Havre is open seven days a week (Monday through Saturday, and Sunday mornings). The cheese shop owned by Fabrice and Marie-Pierre, where you can buy cheeses molded into romantic symbols like hearts and crosses, is the shop’s shining moment.
Distinguished structure
Unfortunately for Perret, our favorite abbey is l’Abbaye de Graville (5 Euros), a patchwork quilt of a thousand years of Catholic history. The first sections of it date back to the 11th century, and after enduring devastating fires, religious wars, the French Revolution, and the World War II bombing, it continues to be a stunning architectural achievement.
Detailing the nuts and bolts
How much foreign exchange will I need?
Euros.
In what tongue do they communicate?
French.
How do I get around?
The city’s two-line tramway connects areas that are inconvenient to reach on foot and extends all the way to the shore. Take the odd tiny funicular (€0.50) to the city’s highest point, Félix Faure. Despite its accessibility, parking is prohibitively expensive.
Where can I get the most breathtaking vista?
The Jardins Suspendus (hours change by season; check website) not only provides a breathtaking view of the port but are also as colorful as an Impressionist painter’s palette.
How about an insider’s secret?
Béton Festival further (literally, Concrete Festival, last weekend of August) is a pulsating mix of music, gastronomy, and architecture.
Achieving Our Goal
Furthermore, making an effort to take fewer plane trips? There is a possibility that Brittany Ferries will resume service between Portsmouth and Le Havre in the spring of 2023, although at present they are not doing so. Before then, you can take a ferry to Dieppe (accessible in one hour by car) or Calais (accessible in three hours by car), or you can take the Eurostar to Paris and then a direct train to Le Havre (accessible in two hours).
Confident in the air?
Paris Orly and Paris Charles de Gaulle are the two closest international airports. A trip on the train from the heart of Paris will take you two hours.